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今天的Kapalai终究未见到日出,但阳光冲破黑云早早的就出现在我们眼前,四天三夜的海上之旅即将结束,整个水上屋的工作人员放下手头的工作前来送别,新结识的四川友人也来道别,岸上新到的游客也向我们挥手。来不及跟Lisa告别,她说会来北京玩。

Kapalai是坐落在西巴丹岛和马布岛之间的一块沙洲。经历过严重的侵蚀,这块沙洲现在变成了躺卧在利吉丹珊瑚群顶端的海滩,广泛舒展的顶部毗邻着浩大的西里伯斯海。这里有16年的历史,依然保持着清澈的海水,在来之前就听说这里有“小马尔代夫”的美称,大家试图不去搜索任何有关的实景照片,为的是亲临现场的那份新鲜与惊喜。

前往Kapalai是段“海陆空”的长途之旅,从北京飞行6小时抵达KL,然后从KL转乘3小时航班飞抵斗湖,接着从斗湖乘坐90分钟大巴抵达仙本娜码头,最后乘坐45分钟快艇到达Kapalai。在转机去斗湖前的6小时间歇,我们去了罕伟在西马的“豪宅”,吃了丰盛的马来大餐:臭豆烧虾、芋头扣肉、煎小黑昌、白斩鸡、吉子酸梅水……吃了10来个榴莲,真是榴莲忘返啊。

到达Kapalai,迎接我们的是Lisa,一位壮壮的、皮肤黝黑发亮、幽默的马来西亚大姐,会说英语华语等多国语言,是Kalapai的大管家,给我们讲解游玩注意事项,告诫我们要警惕各种有危害的美丽的海鱼,她那幽默的港台腔语言让我们很快融入了Kapalai的节奏。

在黄沙漫天半年无雨的北京呆久了对水尤其渴望,这次9人的水上之行有很多的故事,有平衡也有遗憾,一年前,朋友们商讨着一定要来一次集体旅行,于是大伙深夜猛刷Air Asia折扣机票,人员众多的Friends’ Trip有太多需要平衡的,时间、金钱、目的地等,机票订好了有一种“非去不可”的豪情,接下来大家安排行程,请年假,网购潜水用具,忙得不亦乐乎,在临行前一个月,郑佳佳同学由于要去塞班岛公差,最终取消了Kapalai之行,甚是遗憾。

在Kapalai的几日里,最开心的是到点了就有丰盛的美食备好了,这种日子只有小时候在老家才有,每年暑假妈妈会准点准备好一日三餐。六月其实是700BIKE最忙碌的时刻,离开也是为了更好地回来,我们在前进的路上,总是被各种事情所牵绊,少了些许的洒脱与冲动,没有人想要纠结的人生。在Kapalai我们偶遇了一群平均年龄65岁的长者,他们依然健硕,每天清晨第一批去餐厅吃完早餐就背着重重的氧气罐下海深潜,下午大伙聚在一起聊天或玩pad,我们开玩笑地寻找对应的未来的我们,希望那时我们每一个人健健康康,能够一起去很多很多的地方。

随着时间的流逝,大伙相继步入不惑之时,开始懂得曾经的困惑与迷茫,也有了对旧有时光的眷恋,“那些年”在此次旅行中成为我们时常提及的词汇,Kapalai的生活很便利,岛上备有自行车出行,水果甜点饮料全天供应,房间未设置wifi,这项功能太奏效了,为了让大家平静专注地体验大海,摆脱在肮脏的城市里碎片化的生活。夜里大伙躺在海边,海龟在脚下流动,时而探出龟头大吸一口气,头顶是久违的繁星、银河,还有流星。

旅行是一次久违的重逢,也许不会在看见离别时蔚蓝色的天空,风在歌唱,海龟在叹息;也许不会再看见,离别时挥手的微笑。

2013年7月1日 写于KL飞北京航班





27 Comments to “旅行是一次久违的重逢 记我们的蓝色Kapalai水上之旅”

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